Wailuku

Maui is a series of small towns, and the small town that we find ourselves living in is called Wailuku. Wailuku is in the central part of Maui, known (probably in my mind only) as 'the crack' of Maui. The downtown lies at the foot of the 'Iao Valley, which is spectacularly beautiful on a sunny morning. While the town does not directly abut the coast, the ocean can be seen at a distance, as can Haleakala - a dormant volcano which last erupted in 1790 (it's due to erupt every 250 years so we're safe ... I hope!).

Wailuku has a certain charm, but not enough to lure many paradise-hungry visitors. Upon arriving, both Andrew and I ranked it as pretty ordinary, and in parts, relatively gritty. Several remnants from the town's heyday in the 1920s have stuck around including a beautiful public library, courthouse, a rustic-looking church, and a quaint (but very unexciting) main street. But, as is the fate of many county seats, the downtown is now dominated by government-esque style buildings - which in architecture terms, I kid you not, are considered Brutalist.


Like most US cities, Wailuku seems to have expanded in phases. And while I haven't done my homework, I think it's fairly safe to say the first happened in the 1950s and 60s, shortly after WWII and the emergence of cheap air fare. The second, in the 1990s. Needless to say, there are a lot of cars littered around town. A lot. And we hear each and every one as they zip by our hours at all ours of the day.

Naturally, the long-term rental deal Andrew had been negotiating with a car dealership fell through until June, so we have spent our first week here car-less. Car-less, but certainly not immobile. Although I would not compare Maui's bus system with the ranks of Washington D.C. or New York, it's taken us where we've needed to go ... eventually. The routes these buses make are utterly perplexing. They wind through parking lots, make U-turns in suburban neighborhoods, and stop in front of completely un-marked buildings. A trip that may be a mile tops can end up lasting 20 minutes or more. In fact, an afternoon trip to pick up camping items at Sports Authority took us almost all afternoon! But I've actually grown quite fond of the bus. We've ridden it around Wailuku/Kahalui, but also to the beach town of Lahaina and up-country to Haiku, and all the while it's been dependable and great for people watching.